Birding by Train: An Unexpected Adventure
Can birding really be done from a luxury train? In our case, the answer turned out to be yes – and no.
In 2024, BirdLife SA launched the inaugural Rovos Rail Birding Safari – a world-class five-night bespoke journey through South Africa’s epicentre of avian diversity. Departing from Pretoria, the train overnighted at Dullstroom, Mbombela, Hoedspruit, Tzaneen and Polokwane, all chosen for their varied birding habitats and dramatic changes in altitude.
But how does one go birding on a train?
This was made possible by eight highly skilled bird guides who followed the train in minibuses, taking participants to prime birding hotspots early each morning.
The World of Rovos Rail
Rovos Rail, known as “The Most Luxurious Train in the World”, was founded by Rohan Vos in the mid-1980s. What began as a personal dream of refurbishing old railway carriages has grown into an internationally renowned business, complete with its own station and railyard in Pretoria, six trainsets, and routes stretching from Cape Town to Dar-es-Salaam.
To describe Rohan as “a boy with his toys” would be a serious understatement. Gleaming locomotives pull beautifully restored dining, sleeper, lounge and observation cars. He trained his workforce of 430 craftsmen and craftswomen himself, and the Capital Park workshops feel like stepping back into the golden age of rail travel.
At the start of the journey, passengers are guided to their named suites, each carriage attended by a dedicated hostess. Our Deluxe Suite, with its charming original SAR&H basin, shower, bar fridge, easy chairs and generous double bed, made for a very comfortable home on rails.
The Railway Reality
Once the train left Capital Park, however, it was in Transnet’s hands. Their locomotives and drivers pulled the Rovos carriages along an inconsistently maintained network, with little concern for passenger comfort. Jerking and banging could be severe, and Rovos adjusted its planning so that the train remained stationary overnight to ensure restful sleep.
Our journey offered insight into the current state of South Africa’s rail system. Long freight trains still operate, but derelict stations, vandalised infrastructure, abandoned rolling stock, and rusting tracks painted a sobering picture. Overgrown vegetation made leaning out of windows hazardous, and the carriages returned to Pretoria much the worse for wear.
Life Onboard
Despite this, the onboard experience was exceptional.
Great emphasis was placed on fine dining. Lunch and dinner consisted of four courses with wine or liqueur pairings, featuring fresh, local ingredients and traditional dishes. A gong announced each sitting, and linen, silverware and crystal glasses were impeccable.
Evening meals required formal attire, though jackets were mercifully optional. The final dinner was safari-themed, complete with décor and costumes. One could easily imagine Karen Blixen of Out of Africa feeling at home among the leopard prints.
Early Mornings and Rare Sightings
Each morning began at 5 am with coffee and rusks, followed by breakfast packs and minibus departures on one of three birding routes.
Our personal approach is to accept only self-taken photographs as positive records, while most guides rely on bird calls. This occasionally led to frustration, as birds are rarely camera-compliant.
A daily sightings list was published. Nearly 300 species were recorded over five days, including four lifers (first-time sighting) – Magpie Mannikin, Short-clawed Lark, African Quailfinch and a Cuckoo Finch pair – bringing our Southern African list to 637.
A disappointment was missing the African Finfoot, although it was seen on other routes. Such is the nature of birding.
Our most special sighting was the Short-clawed Lark, endemic to the grassland north of Polokwane. Sadly, habitat degradation has placed this near-threatened species at risk.
Learning, Friendship and Fulfilment
Birding was complemented by engaging lectures from Professor Peter Ryan on a range of ornithological topics.
Travelling with Rovos Rail and BirdLife SA proved to be a memorable experience of luxury and excellence. New friendships were formed over shared meals, minibus journeys and time spent in the observation lounge.
For the 72 participants, birding from a train on this inaugural safari was a rare privilege.
Having the means to play and learn with purpose in this way enriches one’s sense of fulfilment in retirement. This journey did exactly that.

Lindsay on the platform at Capital Park station prior to departure

Table setting for the Safari dress-up evening
Written by,
Graham & Lindsay Wells






































































































































































